Walk the talk with OAMC's Luke Meier
OAMC, established by Arnaud Faeh and Luke Meier, is since their beginning a trusted brand at ANDREAS MURKUDIS. Their unobtrusive, yet refined design falls perfectly into line with the stores' aesthetic vision. In the works of partnering up for the OAMC installation at ANDREAS MURKUDIS, we got the chance to have a chat with Creative Director Luke Meier:
In times of permanent overexposure and in a fashion industry that, for the first time in its history, presents itself as highly accessible, emotional, and approachable, you seem to be taking a completely different approach. What does privacy mean to you?
I don’t think I’m intentionally private; it’s just the only way that feels interesting to me. I think that constantly showing everything is a bit too easy; it doesn’t leave anything to the imagination. I think that a little bit of mystery can help people make things their own. They can fill in the blanks with their imagination. This can create an interesting, personal understanding and is usually more exciting than reality.
In your work for OAMC, you seem to avoid narrative in order to create truly versatile designs. Do you seek to create clothes that can be worn by anyone?
I do avoid narrative, but I design from my own experiences, and I like to use design to convey messages. I want people to identify with the clothing on many levels; of course the aesthetic, but I also want the messages within to resonate and be interpreted in personal ways. In that sense, the clothes should be worn by anyone; they are there to be understood and contextualized as individuals see fit.
Do you believe that “dressing down” and not “showing off” are a kind of civic virtue?
That’s a bit extreme, but I do believe that not showing off can reinforce a feeling of confidence. Menswear is also about detail and quality, which are best observed in a “Ramsian” context. It always varies, but often times I find that people who are more reserved on the surface have more to say.
For Andreas Murkudis, refinement and luxury is something rather private and therefore, should not be too conspicuous. What does luxury mean to you? What is sophisticated about your designs?
Time is the one true luxury. I think that is why there is an appreciation for things that are well considered as it intrinsically means that there has been a substantial amount of time invested in the design, process, or construction. Quality takes time. Acquiring skills and knowledge takes time. Making something well takes time. All of this together can result in something that has value, which is what we try to do with OAMC. We put a lot of effort into each aspect of the process and I think you can see that.
Jil Sander, who was initially trained as a garment engineer, has always been known for her meticulous research and her advanced fabrics and techniques. How has she been an inspiration to you?
I think that I operate with the same goal. It is the only way possible to create something of value: you have to invest the time and attention in all the aspects of making.
Supreme, OAMC, Jil Sander—what do the three brands you’ve been designing for have in common? Is there perhaps something democratic about all of them?
They are all very different and have all helped me get to this point. From my experience, there is one glaring commonality: no compromise.